GETTING READY

(Wandering West Africa Part 1)

Travel Tales IndexWandering West Africa IndexWest Africa Pix

 

Dear Friends and Family,

This year, we are taking a trip to Mali, Burkina Faso and Ghana in West Africa from December 16, 2008 until February 6, 2009. For one reason or another, your name is on our travelogue e-mail list. If you know anyone else that would like to receive our e-mails, have them contact Paul at PaulWorksHard@hotmail.com. This is the first of a series of e-mails you will be receiving related to our trip to West Africa. Here is information about planning, packing, logistics and answers to some questions people have asked us:

 

Why Mali, Burkina Faso and Ghana? (i.e. Paul, Where Do You Get These Nutty Ideas?)

For starters, we have never been there! It will be a lot warmer than winter in Virginia and we were able to get frequent flier tickets without too much problem. Mali offers great music, a cutural mix from the desert nomad Turareg to the animist Dogon to the Bozo fishermen, the Niger river, Timbuktu, beautiful handicrafts (textiles & wood carving) and The Festival in the Desert, a three day annual Malian music festival we hope to attend. We always like to end our vacations on the beach so we had to decide between heading west to Senegal or south to Ghana. We picked south because Ghana is reputed to have some beautiful beaches and friendly people. To get from Mali to Ghana overland, you have to go through Burkina Faso. There you go, that’s how we arrived at a decision to spend seven weeks in West Africa! Howeer, it really wasn’t  something we spent a lot of time deciding.

 

How Do You Plan Your Trip?

Our two biggest resources are the library and the Internet. We get as many guidebooks and look at as many web sites as we can. The idea is to decide which cities/towns/villages/small grouping of huts might be interesting to visit. We don't figure out exactly what we want to do in a town, just how many days we might want to spend there.

For this trip, Paul looked at 5 guidebooks: 3 different Bradt Guides, Lonely Planet and Rough Guides. Which guidebook to use is dependent on the destination. For Central & South America, Footprint is by far the best. For Asia, Lonely Planets tends to be better, however, we preferred the Rough Guide in Vietnam. For Cuba, Moon Handbooks can't be beat.

Guidebooks we are using on this trip:

Mali by Ross Velton

Burkina Faso by Katrina Manson and James Knight

Ghana by Philip Briggs

After doing our research, we create a list of places we want to visit and how long we want to stay. We get a map of the country (usually from an on-line source) and circle each place on the map. Next, it is simply a matter of trying to connect the dots in an intelligent fashion. The guidebooks we use tend to focus more on logistics than information about various sites. So, they have maps of each town with lists of places to stay and eat and information about getting from point A to point B by bus, truck, boat, taxi etc. With the dots connected, we have a rough idea of our itinerary and what modes of transportation we will use between places. The initial plan may be changed radically or not at all depending on how much time we have, if a place is better/worse than it sounded in the books, if we decide to add/delete a town because of information from someone we meet on the road, etc.

 

What Do You Take With You? (i.e. Paul, Do You Bring Your Telescope?)

Here’s our packing list for this trip (including what we wear heading out):

Eagle Creek travel pack

Locks for backpack

Double Bed Mosquito Net

1 set capilene underwear (Lois only)

Silk Sleep sack

1 long sleeve micro fleece

Princeton headlamp     

3 light weight s/s shirts

Nylon Cord - for clothesline etc.

2 pair nylon convertible pants

Zip lock bags (to keep things dry)

Chacos (Paul) / Keens(Lois)

Money belt - hangs from belt

Socks - 2 pairs

First aid kit

Underwear - 3 pairs

Steripen UV Water Purifier

2 Soft plastic water bottles

Toilet articles kit

Sarong

Digital Camera

Khymer Scarves to stop dust

Sony Notebook Computer

French phrase book

Passport & back-up photocopy

Guidebooks

Journal

Books to read

Last year, for the first time, we took notebook computer with us. It is a Sony VGN-TX670 which weighs in at 2.75 pounds and includes a memory card reader for our cameras and a DVD/CD writer. We found it to be very useful and have traveled everywhere with it ever since. We can make phone calls using Skype, make CDs of our photos, review photos and, of course, edit travelogues. Believe it or not, the goal is to bring as little as possible. Our packs weigh about 20 pounds each, including a large supply of reading books.

 

What Happens If You Get Sick?

You feel miserable for a little while and spend lots of time in the bathroom. On our Cambodia trip, Paul got seriously dehydrated, but made it to a clinic; got the best and most attentive medical care he ever received and was ready to go the next day. We bring Imodium and Ciproflaxcin. The Imodium stops you up and Cipro is a broad based antibiotic for any bacterial GI problems. We have used both of these on a couple of occasions. We are also taking malarial prophylaxis. Worst case, you need to be evacuated to a nearby city with modern health care facilities. Insurance covers this. In fact, if you join DAN (Diver's Alert Network) for $30 a year, they have fantastic medical evacuation insurance.

 

Where Do You Stay? (i.e. At The Holiday Inn?)

Hotels, motels, guesthouses, inns, pensiones, albergues - any place that has cheap rooms for rent. The guidebooks list places to stay in each town. We have no reservations.

Our understanding is that rooms are in the $20-$40 range in Mali, $10-$25 in Burkina and $5-$15 in Ghana. We'll probably spend toward the high end of the range in the major cities and toward the low end elsewhere. In some cases, we might end up sharing a bathroom.

We usually don't know where we are staying until we walk up to the place, ask to see a room and decide whether or not we like it. Occasionally, we call ahead if the next stop is a large city or we expect it to be difficult to find a room. We have never slept out in the cold, but have paid more than we wanted; stayed in a place we really didn't like or spent an hour or two looking.

 

Money, Money, Money?

Costs to date:

Airfare for 2 into Bamako and from Accra      

$250 + 160,000 frequent flier miles

Mali, Burkina Faso and Ghana Visas

$562 (!!)

3 Guidebooks

$40

Based on the reading we've done, we are expecting costs to be around $75/$50/$30 per day for the two of us in Mali, Burkina Faso and Ghana, respectively. We are bringing €2032 cash, $533 cash, credit cards and two ATM cards. The cheapest and best way to change money is to use your ATM card to get local currency however; we expect they may be few and far between. Both Mali and Burkina Faso use the CFA (Communaute Financiere Africaine) which is directly tied to the Euro (656 CFA = €1). This is the reason we are bringing so much money in Euros. It will be easily changeable to CFA. An unfortunate side effect is that the falling dollar reallys hurts us. The credit cards are backups.

 

How Do You Communicate?

The official language in Mali and Burkina Faso is French, while in Ghana it is English. There are a number of other languages spoken by the various tribes in each country. Hopefully, we should be able to find people that speak some English (younger people) or else understand our very basic French. Usually, people are very helpful. While we might be confused as to what exactly is going on at times, we should be able to fumble our way along. It’s amazing how much you can learn when immersed in a language. We will bring a small phrasebook and a sense of humor as well...

 

 

How Do You Get Two Months Off From Work?

Ask. It works for Paul. Don’t ask and don’t work. That is Lois’ method. Actually, Paul is quite lucky. The people Paul works for have been exceptionally accommodating of his desire to take a little extra time off. So, thank you very much to Craig, Thor and Steve.

 

What Is Your Route?

Click here to see our intended route. We fly Air France from Washington, DC to Paris and then Bamako. We return from Ghana, via JFK on Delta. Below is an ordered list of the places we are planning on seeing and how long Paul thought we might want to spend there. Given that transportation in these countries can be very consuming, we don't know if we can actually get between some of these points and we have 51 days available but 55 days allocated, the chances of sticking to this itinerary are very slim!

Bamako (Mali)

2 days

Bani

1

Segou

2

Ougadougou

3

Djenne

4

Bobo-Dioulasso

4

Sevare/Mopti

2

Banfora

3

Bandiagara

1

Gaoua (not sure)

3

Dogon Country

6

Tieble

2

Timbuktu

3

Tamale (Ghana)

1

Essakane (Festival Au Desert)

3

Larabanga

2

Gao (not sure)

2

Kumasi

4

Hambori (not sure)

3

Elmina/Cape Coast

4

Koro

1

Kokrobite

5

Djibo (Burkina Faso)

1    

Accra

1

Gorem-Gorem

2    

 

Happy Holidays & Happy New Year To Everyone!

Lois & Paul
December 22, 2008

 

Wandering West Africa Index

        

 

        

Wandering West Africa Part 2

 

all content is copyright © Paul Schneider, 2008.