(Crossing Colombia Part 1)
Travel
Tales Index – Crossing Colombia Index – Colombia Pix
Dear
Friends and Family,
This year, we are taking a trip to Colombia from December 27, 2009 until February 21, 2010. For one reason or another, your name is on our travelogue e-mail list. If you know anyone else that would like to receive our e-mails, have them contact Paul at PaulWorksHard@hotmail.com. This is the first of a series of e-mails you will be receiving related to our trip. Here is information about planning, packing, logistics and answers to some questions people have asked us:
Why Colombia? (i.e. Paul, Where Do You Get These Nutty Ideas?)
It all started out in Lafayette, Louisiana where we were hanging our with our good friends Mark, Gerre and Scooter after Festival International. Mark and Gerre travel like we do and often take two or three months a year to go somewhere fun. Gerre asked us where we were planning for this year and at the time (late April), we weren't sure yet. We mentioned Southeast Asia or somewhere in Latin America. Gerre said, "what about Colombia?", Paul responded, "isn't that too dangerous with kidnappings?". Gerre then proceeded to tell us how her twenty something daughter Linsey had spent two months there during a six month trip to South America and thought it was the best part of her trip. Hmmmm.... Within a week, Paul had talked to Linsey, we decided it was a good place to go and booked airline tickets! By the way, there was a recent newspaper article saying kidnappings are down 54% this year from last year (to 172 incidents) and down 91% from 2002 when there were 1441 incidents. So, we blame it all on Mark and Gerre. Who, by the way, are going to spend seven weeks in Colombia at the same time as us. We hope to cross paths with them at least a few times.
Our
two biggest resources are the library and the Internet. We get as many
guidebooks and look at as many web sites as we can. The idea is to decide which
cities/towns/villages/small grouping of huts might be interesting to visit. We
don't figure out exactly what we want to do in a town, just how many days we
might want to spend there.
For
this trip, Paul looked at 3 guidebooks: Bradt Guides, Lonely Planet and Footprint Books. Which
guidebook to use is dependent on the destination. For Central & South
America, Footprint is by far the best. For Asia, Lonely Planets tends to be
better, however, we preferred the Rough Guide in
Guidebook we are using on this trip:
Colombia Handbook by Charlie Devereux |
After
doing our research, we create a list of places we want to visit and how long we
want to stay. We get a map of the country (usually from an on-line source) and
circle each place on the map. Next, it is simply a matter of trying to connect
the dots in an intelligent fashion. The guidebooks we use tend to focus more on
logistics than information about various sites. So, they have maps of each town
with lists of places to stay and eat and information about getting from point A
to point B by bus, truck, boat, taxi etc. With the dots connected, we have a
rough idea of our itinerary and what modes of transportation we will use
between places. The initial plan may be changed radically or not at all
depending on how much time we have, if a place is better/worse than it sounded
in the books, if we decide to add/delete a town because of information from
someone we meet on the road, etc.
What Do You Take With
You? (i.e. Paul, Do You Bring Your Telescope?)
Here’s our packing list for this trip (including what we wear heading out):
Eagle Creek travel pack |
Locks for backpack |
Double Bed Mosquito Net |
1 set capilene underwear (Lois only) |
Silk Sleep sack |
1 long sleeve micro fleece |
Princeton headlamp |
3 light weight s/s shirts |
Nylon Cord - for clothesline etc. |
2 pair nylon convertible pants |
30% DEET, lighter, compass, universal sink plug |
Nylon waterproof windbreaker |
Zip lock bags (to keep things dry) |
Chacos (Paul) / Keens(Lois) |
Money belt - hangs from belt |
Socks - 2 pairs |
First aid kit |
Underwear - 3 pairs |
Steripen UV Water Purifier |
Soft plastic water bottle |
Toilet articles kit |
Sarong |
Digital Cameras (one SLR, one Point and Shoot) |
Scarves to stop dust |
Sony 11.1" Notebook Computer |
Spanish phrase book |
Unlocked cell phone |
Guidebooks |
Journal |
Books to read |
The notebook is a Sony VGN-TX670 which weighs in at 2.75 pounds and includes a
memory card reader for our cameras and a DVD/CD writer. We can make phone
calls using Skype, make DVDs of our photos, review photos and, of course, edit
travelogues. The Steripen is a neat little tool which uses ultraviolet light to kill all bacteria and viruses in water. We used it throughout Africa and had no problems drinking tap water. This allows us to be a little more green and not go through so many plastic water bottles. We are bringing a cell phone so that we can get a Colombian sim card and make local calls (plus if you want, you will be able to call us, if you can figure out how to dial internationally to Colombia). Our latest present to ourselves was a Canon EOS 7D. It has way more capability than we will ever figure out how to use, but it should improve the quality of our photos. Believe it or not, the goal is to bring as little as possible. Our
packs weigh about 23 pounds each, including a large supply of reading books.
You
feel miserable for a little while and spend lots of time in the bathroom. On
our
Where Do You Stay? (i.e. At The Holiday Inn?)
Hotels, motels, guesthouses, inns, pensiones, albergues - any place that has cheap rooms for rent. The guidebooks list places to stay in each town. We have a reservation for our first night in Cali.
Our understanding is that rooms are in the $15-$25 range. We'll probably spend toward the high end of the range in the major cities and toward the low end elsewhere. Hostels with dorm rooms are very popular in Colombia, but we plan on staying in private rooms. In some cases, we might end up sharing a bathroom.
We
usually don't know where we are staying until we walk up to the place, ask to
see a room and decide whether or not we like it. Occasionally, we call ahead if
the next stop is a large city or we expect it to be difficult to find a room.
We have never slept out in the cold, but have paid more than we wanted; stayed
in a place we really didn't like or spent an hour or two looking.
Costs to date:
Airfare for 2 into Cali and out of Cartagena |
$910 |
Guidebook |
$17 |
Based
on the reading we've done, we are expecting costs to be around $50 per day for
the two of us. We are bringing $448 cash, credit cards and two ATM
cards. The cheapest and
best way to change money is to use your ATM card to get local currency. If you open a Fidelity My Smart Cash account, there are no fees and they reimburse you for any fees charged when using your ATM card, anywhere in the world. We expect to find ATMs about as readily as in the United States. The credit cards and cash are backups.
The official language in Colombia is Spanish. We've spent lots of time traveling in Spanish speaking countries, so while Paul is not fluent, he can communicate pretty well. Lois can ask and answer some basic questions and understand a menu. We have a small Berlitz dictionary, a sense of humor and away we go...
How Do You Get Two Months Off From Work?
Ask.
It works for Paul. Don’t ask and don’t work. That is Lois’ method. Actually,
Paul is quite lucky. The people Paul works for have been exceptionally
accommodating of his desire to take a little extra time off. So, thank you
very much to Steve and Howard.
Click here to see our intended route. We fly Copa airlines from Washington, Dulles to Cali, via Panama City and return from Cartagena, again via Panama City. Below is an ordered list of the places we are planning on seeing and how long Paul thought we might want to spend there. Given that transportation in some places may be difficult and that we have 56 days available but about 61 days allocated, the chances of sticking to this itinerary are very slim!
Cali |
2 days |
Tunja |
1 |
Popayan |
3 |
Villa De Leyva |
4 |
San Agustin |
3 |
San Gil |
3 |
Tierradentro |
2 |
Bucaramanga |
1 |
Neiva/Tatacoa Desert |
2 |
Mompos (not sure) |
2 |
Armenia/Salento |
4 |
Cartagena |
3 |
Manizales |
3 |
Barranquilla (for Carnival) |
3 |
Medellin |
3 |
Ciudad Perdida (hike) |
6 |
Santa Fe de Antioquia |
1 |
Santa Marta |
3 |
Marinilla |
3 |
Riohacha (if time allows) |
1 |
Rio Claro |
1 |
Manuare (if time allows) |
1 |
Bogota |
4 |
Cabo De La Vela (if time allows) |
2 |
Happy Holidays & Happy New Year To Everyone!
Lois & Paul
December 26, 2009