A Real Chicken Bus!
Muhavura Volcano
We crossed the border at Cyanika from Uganda to Rwanda. Since we didn't know what the exchange rate was and changing money at a border can be a little dicey, we only got about $50 worth of Rwandan Francs. We assumed when we got to Ruhengeri (our destination) we could exchange money. A minibus pulls up to the Rwandan side of the border and we hop in. It's 30 km to Ruhengeri, so we are assuming it will be a quick trip. NOTE: That's two assumptions in one day - a big mistake!
After driving for about five minutes, the minibus stopped at a town that was having a market day. We had the pleasure of sitting there for about an hour - in some serious heat - while half the kids in the village stood around staring at us. A few came over to shake my hand or touch my skin. Some talked with us in either French or English - mostly "how are you?" and "what's your name?". We also got to watch another minibus being loaded with live goats (all put underneath the seats). Our minibus was loaded with chickens in every conceivable spot, except the seats. They strung a rope around the back of the van, from the left rear window to the right rear window. Sets of 4 chickens had their legs tied together and they were hung up-side-down from the rope stretched across the back of the van. Two chickens on each side of the rope. Glad I'm not a chicken (or a goat).
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A Real Chicken Bus! |
Muhavura Volcano |
After our one-hour stop, we continued on and 10 minutes later, the rear tire blew out (not a big surprise, since there was no tread, whatsoever, on any of the tires). Of course, they didn't have a spare, so we waited at the side of the road for another van to come along and lend them a spare - at least they had a jack! Eventually, we arrived in Ruhergeri about 3 hours after leaving the border. Remember, this was a 30 km drive on a paved road.
I was tired and, according to Lois, grouchy ( I don't think I was), but I didn't really enjoy all the kids crowding around us and staring at every stop. When we got to Ruhengeri, it was more of the same. So, I wasn't too thrilled with Ruhengeri. Then we found out the bank had closed and there were apparently no moneychangers in Ruhengeri. Okay, let's blow this town! On to the capital of Rwanda, Kigali. Okay, maybe I was a LITTLE grouchy, but don't ever tell Lois I admitted to it!
One nice feature of Rwanda was that they had "first class" minibuses. They ran non-stop from one town to another, starting and ending at the company's office. Only 14 passengers and one driver were allowed, so you have a whole seat to yourself. Very nice and fast transport. Arriving in Kigali, we passed a hotel our guidebook recommended, so we got off the van and walked back to Auberge La Caverne. Reasonably clean, airy rooms with hot water for $14. I started feeling better!
We walked around Kigali looking for a lunch spot and Lois asked a woman on the street if she knew where Terra Nova restaurant is. She didn't, so she stopped a moto driver to ask him. He didn't, so they stopped a third passerby and asked him. He knew where it was and volunteered to escort us there. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed, so he walked us to another one that he recommended. Turns out, it was a pretty good recommendation, so if you are ever in Kigali, check out the City Center Restaurant.
As you know, Lois and I had gone gorilla tracking in Uganda. There are a total of 4 places in the world where you can see mountain gorillas in the wild - two in Uganda, one in The Congo and one in Rwanda. We went back and forth a few times - was it worth another $500?, was it really that great?, does it make sense to do again? etc. In the end the "once in a lifetime opportunity" won out and we booked gorilla tracking in Rwanda. The tracking took place near Ruhengeri, that town I loved so much. However, the second time we went armed with lots of Rwandan money and a French phrasebook we bought in Kigali and the town seemed a bit nicer.
There are four different groups of Gorillas that are tracked in Rwanda. The Susa group is the largest with 38 members, including three silverbacks and a newborn (1 week old). When you show up at the park office, they assign you to track a particular group. We got up at 6:00am, showed up at the office at 7:10 (20 minutes early) and made our desire to track the Susa group known. The chief warden and one of the guides both told us it might not be possible, we didn't have our own transport to the tracking site etc. Lois then spent the next 20 minutes doing her best to charm them. We sat and waited and were told we will indeed be able to track the Susa group with some tourists that are coming over from Uganda. Lois is one hell of a charmer...
When they arrived, we drove off in their 4 x 4 toward the tracking spot. Along the way, the truck stopped and starts backing up. We were thinking - what, did they miss a turn-off? No, the guide hopped out and talked to someone carrying a whole stem of bananas. (Earlier the guide saw me on the street looking to buy bananas for the hike). I bought the whole bunch for about 40 cents. Off we go again. It was amazing how friendly the kids along the way were. We received all sorts of smiles, frantic hand waving, an old man lifting his hat etc. It was hard not to sit in the back of the truck waving your hand like the queen!
The hike to the gorillas was one hour straight up through potato fields - more than you could ever imagine, then 15 minutes through a bamboo forest and finally 45 minutes through lots of brush, stinging nettle (ouch!) and some trees. We reached a spot where it looked like a steam roller had come through recently and trampled everything. This was the Gorilla's route and we followed it until we reach them.
 Top Of Potato Fields |
 The Bamboo Forest |
About 5 minutes after first seeing the gorillas, we knew we made the right decision with regards to tracking a second time. Due to the nature of the land - mostly brush & ferns & nettles and few trees, the gorillas were right out in the sunlight and clearly visible. Plus, there were so many more than in Uganda. We saw juveniles climbing trees, a one-week old baby clinging to mama's breast, two gorillas a few months old playing in a tree, the silverback sitting there watching us, a couple gorillas playing and rolling around, a gorilla approaching a guide who was laying down as if to touch him, a Silverback on all fours, out in the open posing for us, the gorillas watching us watching them, the sounds of munching on leaves and branches. One gorilla got divided from the group and came running between us to rejoin the group. The hour was over too quickly and as soon as it was, we were ready to do it again. So, no regrets about the second visit. It far exceeded our expectations and the previous experience.
 Parc National |
 des Volcanes |
 Well Worth |
 The Hike |
 The Susa Group |
 Junior is A Few Months Old |
 Proud Daddy |
From Ruhengeri, we headed to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu which divides the Congo and Rwanda. According to our guide book, we could get a boat from here to our next destination, also on Lake Kivu, Kibuye. We went to the port and found out there might be a boat around 3:30pm (it was10:00am), it might be willing to take us to Kibuye and it might be expensive or it might be cheap. Not a whole lot of definites here. we decided to head back to town and take the bus to Kibuye - yes, I know what you are thinking - gutless, unadventurous wimps - well, guilty as charged!
 Standard Local Transport |
 Lake Kivu |
The bus to Kibuye didn't leave until 2:00, so we went to an internet cafe, had lunch etc. At 2:00, we boarded the bus. It headed out at 2:30, but made the mandatory stop at the gas station, filled up and loaded two five-gallon gas cans by Lois's legs and we left town at 3:00. The ride was through the mountains with glimpses of the lake in the background. Many of the mountains are fully planted, to the top, with tea. They terraced the entire mountainside. The rough road wound and twisted and turned through the mountains for 3 hours. We hit pavement and finally arrived at Bethanie Guesthouse in Kibuye at 7:00PM. The Guesthouse is built on the side of a hill, overlooking the lake. From our room, we could see the lake and the lights of the villages around it at night. We'll stay here a day or two before heading on...
 Lois Attracts a Crowd |
 Lake Kivu |
 Crowned Crane |