SALTA, LA LINDA

 

(Aventuras Argentinas Part 5)

 

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We just got home on February 19, but our last travelogue left us in Tafi Del Valle and promised the next travelogue would detail "the truly spectacular parts of the North that we visited". We hope this travelogue delivers on that promise!

 

From Tafi Del Valle, we took another ride winding through the mountains, up and over a pass into the next valley.  As happened often, the difference from one side of the mountain to the other was amazing. We moved into a high desert terrain. The land was extremely dry, not very much vegetation at all and more and more saguaro cactus as we went down into the next town, Amaichi Del Valle.

 

Conveniently, the bus let us off right in front of a little sun canopy with a temporary tourist information office. We asked about transportation to our next destination, the archeological ruins at Quilmes. It turned out that there was a taxi driver right there and he would take us to Quilmes, twelve miles away, wait an hour and bring us back for $10.  Even better, there were two Argentineans that wanted to go with us so we could split the cost with them. After a half an hour ride, we had two new Argentinean acquaintances and had arrived at the ruins.

 

The ruins covered a reasonably large area of about a square mile or so.  All that remained were the walls of the various dwellings. The site was built into the side of a U shaped mountain so they were protected on three sides. Fortifications along the mountain ridge provided further protection.  The largest dwellings were furthest from the hillside and were houses for five or six families, presumed to be workers. As you got closer to the hillside, the houses became smaller for smaller groups of people, until you got to the smallest houses, but with the safest location (and best view) where the priests lived. It was well enough fortified to stop the Incas who controlled almost all of Peru, Bolivia and Northern Argentina from dominating them. However, nothing stopped the Spanish who conquered everyone.

 

 

After spending an hour at the ruins, the taxi took us back to the main road, where we said goodbye to our recent acquaintances and got out to hitch a ride or get a bus to our next destination, Cafayate. We waited about 45 minutes with a number of cars passing us (and no buses) until we got a great hitch from a young couple (Rodolfo and Maria) who had gone through the ruins at about the same time as us. They drove us all the way (30 miles) to Cafayate, with a quick stop at a small town on the way where there was a statue honoring Rodolfo's great grandfather who had once been the governor of the province. In Cafayate, we stopped at a winery where Rodolfo knew the owner who, unfortunately, was not in, but we had a nice wine tasting. Then we walked around town looking for a good place to stay. After exchanging e-mail addresses, we said our goodbyes to Rodolfo and Maria since they were heading on.

 

 

Cafayate was a very pleasant town with a nice tree filled plaza. The town was about five blocks wide by fifteen blocks long. There was lots of artesania - metal work, jewelry, ceramics, weaving, carving and of course, the ubiquitous t-shirts. For the first time since we left Buenos Aires we came across foreigners - we had finally hit the foreign tourist circuit and for good reason. Everyone was there (including us) to see the Quebrada del Rio de las Conchas. It was an area of unreal canyons and geographic formations. The mountains were formed by shifting tectonic plates, but the colors we saw were created by a former inland sea. The slowly receding waters left behind various colors and striations in the sedimentary rock. (This is what Paul thinks they said, but hey, he's no geologist, he's a rocket scientist). 

 

 

We took an incredible six hour tour of the valley covering about thirty miles of roads.  They would drive us a little ways, everyone would get out, we would follow the guide for a half an hour walk through a particular formation, he would explain it and then we would head back to the van and go to the next spot. There was red, red rock formed from copper oxide, green rock from iron oxide and many other colors from some sort of oxide, shmoxide. You could probably spend a week just hiking in the mountains around Cafayate and never tire of the scenery, but we had places to go so the next day saw us on a bus to the city of Salta. The tourism promotional material for Salta province says "Salta, La Linda" - Salta the beautiful. We can tell you, that is absolutely one hundred percent true.

 

 

The city of Salta was reasonably large but pretty easy to navigate. The first museum we went to was the Museo de Arqueologia de Alta Montaña (Museum of High Altitude Archaeology).  Inaugurated in November of 2004 (and therefore, not even mentioned in our guide books), the entire museum was dedicated to the three Incan mummies discovered on the summit of Llullaillaco volcano in Salta province in 1999.  We had seen a National Geographic show on the discovery, but the museum was far superior. They had video of the discovery, information on all the scientific analysis done to date - DNA, MRI, X-RAYS and a whole bunch of other acronyms. Additionally, they discussed the offerings found with the mummies and their context in the society at the time. It was probably one of the most complete, well presented museums we have even seen. Check out www.maam.org.ar for further information.

 

Most of the other museums in Salta paled in comparison to the MAAM. However, as in many places, the museums were housed in some very old, grand buildings. While Lois went and looked through the museums, Paul wrote in his journal, relaxed, took pictures or enjoyed the buildings themselves.

 

 

One night, we went to a very popular local peña. It was a restaurant where they have "folkloric" music every evening. The all male band consisted of a lead guitar, a rhythm guitar, a drum and a bandoneon which is a small button accordion of German origin. We arrived at about 10:30, got pretty good seats and the band started a little later. The best comparison I can make is to an Irish pub in the USA, except not as many people sang along with the music.  However, the band had a couple of great women vocalists come up and sing on stage or else sing from their seats. In addition, there were two couples in "typical" dress that danced to the music. All in all, it was a fun night, although, Paul does prefer music that he can dance to, as opposed to watching other people dance.

 

There were a number of other towns we wanted to visit in the province of Salta and we spent some time deciding whether to go with a local travel agency or try and do it ourselves. Most of the travel agency tours involved leaving at about 7:00 AM, riding in a 4 by 4 or truck for an awful long time to see various scenic areas and getting back to your room at about 8:00 PM.  After due consideration, we decided we would take the trip to a small mountain town, Cachi, using the bus, stay there for the night and then return the next day. It would involve a little more driving time but we would have a lot more time in Cachi and the pace would be much more relaxing. 

 

 

The guide books rave about the ride through the mountains to Cachi and about the town itself. They may have oversold it a bit, but it certainly was a pretty trip. At first, it was very green with lots of small trees and shrubs, but after crossing a mountain pass and descending into the valley, we were in another arid area with saguaro cactus.  In many places, the narrow road ran along the side of the mountain and we saw a cut rock wall on one side of the road and a sheer cliff on the other.  That's when you hope there is no on-coming traffic!

 

 

 

When we arrived in Cachi, we found a truly small, quiet, tranquil town. There was almost no traffic in the streets and just a couple of people hanging out in the plaza. After settling in at our hospedaje (which was a very welcoming place with a big patio overlooking the river), we ambled over to the tourist office to see what they had to recommend.  As luck would have it, there was a sunset cultural tour of Cachi leaving in a few minutes.

 

 

The tour is run daily by a couple of enterprising local families. They led us to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking the town where we all sat down. As we watched the sun set behind the surrounding mountains, they told us about the local history, economy and politics. The town was started in 1673 as a Spanish hacienda. However, it remains populated by mostly indigenous people. Typically, they engage in small scale agricultural labor, but the recent influx of tourists has increased the amount of artesania. 

 

 

They took us to one of the guide's family's home which was typical for this area. It was adobe (mud brick) plastered on the inside with a large inner courtyard and all dirt floors.  They had an outhouse for a bathroom and no electricity. The entire group of twenty-two of us sat around a large table while they told us more about the indigenous culture and the worship of the mother earth goddess, Pachamama.  The Spanish tried to eradicate the worship of Pachamama and replace it with Catholicism. However, families continued to practice it in private.  Recently, the younger people in the community have started to try to move it back into public and community life. What was interesting is that many families are both practicing Catholics and worshippers of Pachamama. After singing a few songs for us, accompanied by just a drum, our guides led us back to electricity, running water and the town of Cachi.

 

While we liked Cachi very much and would have loved to spend a few more days in the area, it was February 5th and we still had a lot more of Northwest Argentina we wanted to see. From Cachi, we returned to Salta and then on to Jujuy, another province and another travelogue...

 

 

Lois & Paul

McLean, Virginia, USA

February 25, 2006

 

 

Aventuras Argentinas Part 4                 Aventuras Argentinas Part 6

 

All content is copyright © Paul Schneider, 2006.